How To Clean Fine Jewelry
5 tips for cleaning fine jewelry and how to care for different gemstones and kinds of jewelry.
Just like certain gemstones are better suited for particular kinds of jewelry, some gemstones require different cleaning and care considerations. Here is a guide of what you need to know to clean and keep your jewelry sparkling all year round.
TIP: clean your jewelry at least once a year to remove built-up residues of any kind and check settings.
1. WATER AND DISH SOAP IS ALL YOU NEED
The most universally safe cleaning solution is water and mild dish soap. Really!
Personally, I use lukewarm water with mild dish soap (no detergents), although NOT on soft or porous gemstones (opal), gemstones that have been treated (oiled emeralds or filled rubies), or any gemstones strung on silk strands (more on this later). For fine jewelry (not plated) I soak pieces in water for a few minutes (5 - 15 mins depending on how much dirt has accumulated) in a glass. Finally, I rinse it clean with water and leave it to air dry on a paper towel. If there are areas that have not come clean, gently clean them with a mixture of water and mild dish soap using a soft toothbrush or soft cloth.
TIP: Be sure the stopper in your sink is firmly closed.
NOTE: chemicals and acids, even those intended for jewelry, can harm some gemstones.
As you wear your jewelry, be aware that household detergents, cleaners containing bleaches, or chlorine in a pool can dull the luster of pearls, cause color changes in opals, and alter or deteriorate the appearance of treated gemstones, such as filled rubies or oiled emeralds.
Precious metals can also become discovered or tarnished when exposed to certain chemicals (from fragrance to hot tubs), depending on the alloys. Lower karat gold jewelry alloyed with copper, silver, or nickel is more susceptible to damage.
A polishing cloth is a great way to remove tarnish on silver or give gold a special shine. However, do not “polish” softer gemstones with polishing cloths.
2. GEMSTONES HAVE DIFFERENT CLEANING NEEDS
Just as the Mohs scale is important to know when choosing a particular kind of gemstone for a particular kind of jewelry, it also informs care and cleaning considerations.
What is the Mohs scale? It is the degree of mineral “hardness”, measured by the resistance which a smooth surface offers to abrasion: 1 (soft) to 10 (hard). For example, an 8 will scratch a gemstone that is a 7 or below. Simply put, softer stones have different cleaning methods to avoid damage.
NOTE: quartz is a 7 on the Mohs scale and can be present in common dust. A ten-minute soak in water followed by a water rinse before cleaning can dislodge built-up dust and residue before cleaning. For jewelry with gemstones on the Mohs scale at 7 or above, lukewarm water with mild soap and a soft toothbrush. For those at 6 or below, rinse with lukewarm water prior to wiping with a damp soft cloth as needed.
TIP: Always store each piece in its own pouch or box to prevent scratches and tangles!
3. WATER WEAKENS SILK STRANDS OF PEARLS AND GEMSTONES
If your strand of pearls or necklace of beaded gemstones is strung with silk thread, clean with a barely damp soft cloth sparingly as needed. While silk thread is strong, immersing it in water (be it bathing, swimming, or sweating) will weaken its strength over time. If the silk strands begin to appear worn or stretched, have it restrung to avoid the loss of pearls or gemstones.
NOTE: Strands can break at the most inconvenient times… i.e. dining at dark restaurants or strolling on a busy sidewalk. This is where knotted silk strands are a saving grace. If a strand gives way, the risk of loss is limited at one or two pearls or beads, versus a whole lot more. Knots are recommended for saltwater pearls or precious gemstones beads of significant value.
TIP: check strands annually and restring every 3 years.
4. CHECK SETTINGS AND STONES
Once your fine jewelry is clean and dry, it is a perfect time to closely inspect the piece and check if the stones are chipped, loose, or rattle in settings.
If you have noticed a ring or pendant catches on fabrics, it may be an indicator that prongs are not secure.
TIP: If a gemstone moves even a little in a setting or the prongs look worn, do not wear it. Enlist a jewelry professional to secure or restore the setting.
5. ULTRASONIC CLEANERS CAN DAMAGE GEMSTONES
Be aware that ultrasonic cleaners can crack opals, shatter pearls, or damage gemstones that are treated. For example, such intense cleaning can cause the oil or filler to leach out of emeralds and will diminish the original appearance of the stone.
TIP: personally, I avoid such cleaners entirely. If an investment piece requires significant cleaning, engage a trustworthy professional. Such cleaning should involve checking for loose stones in settings or prongs that may need repair.
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